In this, and any, economy, a business has to keep a close eye on dollars going out. As a business owner, you do not want to spend money on things you can maybe skip or wait out. But, as with any automobile, skipping or waiting out the maintenance on an expensive UV-curing digital printer is asking for trouble and will most likely cost you a lot more than you expected.

When it comes to our UV-curing printers, a lot of redundant maintenance and automatic fail-safe procedures are built into most of the machines to ensure anything terrible does not happen. Some maintenance tasks are simple and some are complicated. Some, if not carried out in time, will simple cause the machine to turn itself off. The good news is that the more complicated the tasks are, the more the machines made these days do the maintenance automatically.

Something to remember: maintenance is not the same as repair! Instead, it just prevents a lot of very expensive repairs! Something else to remember: the first rule of printer maintenance is to always make sure the machine stays clean. Maintenance is not fun, and it's not exciting, but it is very necessary. UV-curing printers are exponentially more complicated than other printers. The water based printers are great workhorses that don't ever really break. Water based printer maintenance is simple: oil a couple of places, wipe off a couple of places and it runs forever. If something does need to be replaced, it's usually a matter of taking out the old part and plugging in the new one. With our UV machines, it's more complicated. There are moving parts, more electronics, UV-emitting light bulbs that must be monitored and in general, just more to keep up with. Maintenance is a critical part of performance and longevity, and the process is different for each individual model.

All things considered, the best strategy to ensure you get the most value from your UV-curing printer is to follow all manufacturer recommended maintenance procedures and schedules. The printer manual is a useful reference book. Most users will go through a period of training during which they learn the basics of how to operate a machine. The manual has recommended procedures and can be a digital printer owner's best friend. It may not be the most exciting reading, but it is filled with essential information you need to keep your printer in optimal working condition.

With so many different substrates on the market, it can be a bit difficult to keep up with new products. Taking the time to compare product features, finishing requirements, availability, and price can help you to create a handful of substrates for your company.

What you want to do initially is assess your company or shop's needs. What kind of sign company are you? Do you just work with vinyl, are you a screen printer, digital printer, or maybe even an electric shop? It's also good to analyze what substrates you have used in the past, and what substrates have been requested by customers. Make a very organized list of what substrates your company can benefit from and stick to it. You most definitely do not want to go crazy and go after every substrate out there.

The key is to know what substrates are most widely used, and what purpose they serve. Acrylic is extremely popular for illuminated sign faces. For smaller signs or large signs mounted flush on a building signabond is widely used. For outdoor applications that require a more rigid substrate, Alumalite (Nudo), is a very durable material to use. It is basically layered aluminum with a high impact corrugated plastic core that helps to create a lightweight yet strong substrate with an outdoor life expectancy of ten years. Sintra is a great sheet plastic option, and is perfect for indoor uses. Lastly, Coroplast (Corex) is perfect for temporary signage because it is inexpensive and lightweight.

MN Designs offers these, and many other substrates that can fit many signage needs. We also offer samples of the products upon request so that your customers will have a visual of what each substrate is. This is a great option to have because it gives both you and your customer something to work around. This also helps you to know your substrates.

Substrates available at MN Designs can be found here.

Here's a common scenario. You've installed some window perf with a laminate overlay. After a week or so your customer calls back because the edges are coming up. You end up calling your vendor and really end up not getting the help you need. So, what do you do?

Let's go through the process of prepping for the installation, and then we'll give you the tips on how to handle peeling. It's really important to make sure that all contaminants are off the window before installation. The common thought is to use Windex or something similar, but not only does Windex not touch silicone, but it actually contains it. Alcohol will not cut through silicone either.

It is actually highly recommended to clean the windows using Soft Scrub, or something similar. Don't waste you time on fancy smells or bleach, as you're just using this to remove silicone from the window. Spread it on a sponge; apply to the window and scrub. After doing this, wash it down with water, and you can finish with isopropyl alcohol to speed the drying process.

After installation, cut the perf back 3/8-inch from the edge of the window and seal it with optically clear tape. It is basically a roll of optically clear overlaminate slit down into thin rolls. It ensures that the edges are not exposed to the elements. You'll notice great success when using this method and the common failures when not.